Which Dulcimer is Right for YOU?
As you have probably already figured out, there are a lot of different sizes of hammered dulcimers. And makers. And some are chromatic, and apparently, some are not.
I have had a number of discussions with folk who want to get started, but have no idea what they really need to buy. Hence this gallery.
I am going to give you my thoughts, based on my experience playing the hammered dulcimer. In this discussion I am not going to try to explain why you should buy a specific brand of dulcimer, or whether a solid wood top is better than a laminated top, instead I am going to focus on what notes you need to have to enjoy your instrument.
The first figure in this gallery shows a plot of instrument cost versus the number of distinct notes on the instrument - some of the notes appear two or even three times, but I only count each note once. Typically the prices are for instruments without a case, though if the name in Figures 2 and 3 says “Package – they include a case. And, the prices I quote are for the simplest example of that instrument - many of these instruments can be pricier with fancier woods or trim.
I used data from Dusty Strings, Master Works, and Cloud Nine websites to put this table together.
So, simple instrument, less than $500 new. Not quite twice as many notes and, well, almost 10 times the price. This is a decision you need to think about.
The second figure gives you the data from which the plot was generated. It also gives you dimensions, weights, and the number of bridge/notes on one side of each bridge. So, a 2/13/12/7 has two notes on a small bridge up at the top left of the instrument, 13 notes on one side (and 13 on the other side for that matter) on the main bridge on the left side of the instrument, 12 notes on the right bridge, and an additional 7 notes on the smaller bridge to the bottom left. So, let’s see here, 2+13+13+12+7 – that’s 47. Yet, for this instrument, which happens to be the Dusty Strings D300, there are a number of redundant notes, so the total number of discreet notes is only 35.
Now for the nitty gritty. Just how many notes do you need??? And, how big and heavy an instrument do you want to lug around?
Table 2 gives dimensions and weights. This is where Masterworks really shines – their dulcimers are lighter than a comparable Dusty Strings or Cloud Nine – best example is the Russell Cook Edition from Master Works (12 pounds) compared to a Dusty Strings D500 (18 pounds) or a Cloud Nine at 20 pounds. These are significant differences if you need to carry the instrument very far.
A simple 12/11 gives you a lot of music power. Click on the third figure, then hover your mouse over the right side of the table, and click on “large”. Ahh, now you can see the table. Of course, now you can’t see this text. But, check out the table. When ready to close this window, click on “close” in the upper right corner.
In the third figure, notice that across the top of the table you see 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6. These are octaves, with middle C starting the fourth octave. In the discussions below I will refer to notes by their octave and name.
A 12/11 gives you 35 notes, and allows you to play readily in the keys of C (2 octaves), D, F, and G (2 octaves). Which is pretty impressive. And, if you retune one string so it is not the same as another string, you get one more note – Octave 5 D# that you will use, and, hey, buy a $15 piece of wood and delron from Master Works and you get another note – Octave 5 G#, which, again, is quite handy.
Going to a 15/14, which sounds like a lot of change, adds 4 notes down low. Which also lets you play in the key of A, and adds a second octave in D. So, yes, those are important notes.
A 16/15 adds only one more note unless you also buy the little strip of wood and Delron, then it adds 2 notes when compared to a 15/14 with said little strip of wood.
So, what does all this mean to you??? As a beginner, you will be able to play 90 to 95% of all the songs you want to with a 12/11. If you progress you will likely next want the Octave 5 D# at the top of the right hand bridge, and the Octave 5 G# at the top of the right hand side of the left bridge. Oh, you can get these on a 12/11. You will also likely want to be able to add a bit more range – so adding those lower notes looks attractive. And, hey, stepping up to a 15/14 or a 16/15 does add some rich bass tones to your instrument. And, I suppose now you are up to being able to play 97% of the songs you want to play. Especially with the 16/15’s that also give you an Octave 4 D# at the bottom of the left side of the left hand bridge
Note, it is always possible to fudge a bit and still play songs for which you might be missing one note. But, it is always more fun to have more notes!!!
So, simple 12/11 – around $400 or $500, new. Next larger, well, from $500 to $1,100. Please please remember, these prices are without stands or cases or sticks – unless they are a package price.
I find that the next note that I really, really want is the Octave 3 B flat (or A# as shown in the table). In my world I find this note all too critical for some of the more challenging pieces I play. Some would say just re-tune the Octave 3 B on the right bridge down a half step and quit complaining. ‘Cept I have songs that want both notes. OK - there is in fact a Octave 3 B on the left bridge so one could re-tune the right bridge note each time one wants to play a special song. But, gads, it is so much easier to have that extra note.
But, here is the sticking point – to get this B flat you pretty much have to add another bridge – this one way over to the left on most instruments (though some of the newer designs move it to the right, where it is much handier). And, don’t look now, but going for that note boosts the price into the $1,350 to $2,000 range.
Not quite that simple, because typically the more expensive instruments also have a more tailored sound – which means at this level you have to decide what you like most – more sustain, less sustain, more bass sound, or a stronger treble sound, or both… All of which is beyond the scope of what I am trying to help with here.
My bottom line? A 12/11 is a lot of dulcimer. Each additional expansion of the dulcimer costs quite a bit, and doesn’t really give you a proportionate increase in playing room. For me, at my level of playing, I need to have at least a 16/15 with an extra bridge to give me the Octave 3 B flat. Beyond this one is really just buying some wonderfully deep bass notes – which are a whole lot of fun, but very rarely written into the music – these are notes you add because you like the sound of them.
I hope all this helps, at least a little bit.
Read MoreI have had a number of discussions with folk who want to get started, but have no idea what they really need to buy. Hence this gallery.
I am going to give you my thoughts, based on my experience playing the hammered dulcimer. In this discussion I am not going to try to explain why you should buy a specific brand of dulcimer, or whether a solid wood top is better than a laminated top, instead I am going to focus on what notes you need to have to enjoy your instrument.
The first figure in this gallery shows a plot of instrument cost versus the number of distinct notes on the instrument - some of the notes appear two or even three times, but I only count each note once. Typically the prices are for instruments without a case, though if the name in Figures 2 and 3 says “Package – they include a case. And, the prices I quote are for the simplest example of that instrument - many of these instruments can be pricier with fancier woods or trim.
I used data from Dusty Strings, Master Works, and Cloud Nine websites to put this table together.
So, simple instrument, less than $500 new. Not quite twice as many notes and, well, almost 10 times the price. This is a decision you need to think about.
The second figure gives you the data from which the plot was generated. It also gives you dimensions, weights, and the number of bridge/notes on one side of each bridge. So, a 2/13/12/7 has two notes on a small bridge up at the top left of the instrument, 13 notes on one side (and 13 on the other side for that matter) on the main bridge on the left side of the instrument, 12 notes on the right bridge, and an additional 7 notes on the smaller bridge to the bottom left. So, let’s see here, 2+13+13+12+7 – that’s 47. Yet, for this instrument, which happens to be the Dusty Strings D300, there are a number of redundant notes, so the total number of discreet notes is only 35.
Now for the nitty gritty. Just how many notes do you need??? And, how big and heavy an instrument do you want to lug around?
Table 2 gives dimensions and weights. This is where Masterworks really shines – their dulcimers are lighter than a comparable Dusty Strings or Cloud Nine – best example is the Russell Cook Edition from Master Works (12 pounds) compared to a Dusty Strings D500 (18 pounds) or a Cloud Nine at 20 pounds. These are significant differences if you need to carry the instrument very far.
A simple 12/11 gives you a lot of music power. Click on the third figure, then hover your mouse over the right side of the table, and click on “large”. Ahh, now you can see the table. Of course, now you can’t see this text. But, check out the table. When ready to close this window, click on “close” in the upper right corner.
In the third figure, notice that across the top of the table you see 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6. These are octaves, with middle C starting the fourth octave. In the discussions below I will refer to notes by their octave and name.
A 12/11 gives you 35 notes, and allows you to play readily in the keys of C (2 octaves), D, F, and G (2 octaves). Which is pretty impressive. And, if you retune one string so it is not the same as another string, you get one more note – Octave 5 D# that you will use, and, hey, buy a $15 piece of wood and delron from Master Works and you get another note – Octave 5 G#, which, again, is quite handy.
Going to a 15/14, which sounds like a lot of change, adds 4 notes down low. Which also lets you play in the key of A, and adds a second octave in D. So, yes, those are important notes.
A 16/15 adds only one more note unless you also buy the little strip of wood and Delron, then it adds 2 notes when compared to a 15/14 with said little strip of wood.
So, what does all this mean to you??? As a beginner, you will be able to play 90 to 95% of all the songs you want to with a 12/11. If you progress you will likely next want the Octave 5 D# at the top of the right hand bridge, and the Octave 5 G# at the top of the right hand side of the left bridge. Oh, you can get these on a 12/11. You will also likely want to be able to add a bit more range – so adding those lower notes looks attractive. And, hey, stepping up to a 15/14 or a 16/15 does add some rich bass tones to your instrument. And, I suppose now you are up to being able to play 97% of the songs you want to play. Especially with the 16/15’s that also give you an Octave 4 D# at the bottom of the left side of the left hand bridge
Note, it is always possible to fudge a bit and still play songs for which you might be missing one note. But, it is always more fun to have more notes!!!
So, simple 12/11 – around $400 or $500, new. Next larger, well, from $500 to $1,100. Please please remember, these prices are without stands or cases or sticks – unless they are a package price.
I find that the next note that I really, really want is the Octave 3 B flat (or A# as shown in the table). In my world I find this note all too critical for some of the more challenging pieces I play. Some would say just re-tune the Octave 3 B on the right bridge down a half step and quit complaining. ‘Cept I have songs that want both notes. OK - there is in fact a Octave 3 B on the left bridge so one could re-tune the right bridge note each time one wants to play a special song. But, gads, it is so much easier to have that extra note.
But, here is the sticking point – to get this B flat you pretty much have to add another bridge – this one way over to the left on most instruments (though some of the newer designs move it to the right, where it is much handier). And, don’t look now, but going for that note boosts the price into the $1,350 to $2,000 range.
Not quite that simple, because typically the more expensive instruments also have a more tailored sound – which means at this level you have to decide what you like most – more sustain, less sustain, more bass sound, or a stronger treble sound, or both… All of which is beyond the scope of what I am trying to help with here.
My bottom line? A 12/11 is a lot of dulcimer. Each additional expansion of the dulcimer costs quite a bit, and doesn’t really give you a proportionate increase in playing room. For me, at my level of playing, I need to have at least a 16/15 with an extra bridge to give me the Octave 3 B flat. Beyond this one is really just buying some wonderfully deep bass notes – which are a whole lot of fun, but very rarely written into the music – these are notes you add because you like the sound of them.
I hope all this helps, at least a little bit.
